Belgrade in Serbia: 5 travel tips for an overlooked metropolis in the Balkans is written by Jacob Gowland Jørgensen
Belgrade – a budget-friendly city in the Balkans
Few people think of the Balkans as an option for an extended weekend or short holiday, and that is actually a shame, because there is plenty to experience and often direct and cheap flights.
It is also obvious to put on tour of the Balkan region, and gain an in-depth experience of the different countries and regions.
One of the overlooked capitals is Belgrade in Serbia in the Balkans, which I had put off for a long time, as I didn't really have high expectations for it.
But you are often pleasantly surprised when you finally get out and see the world, and that also applied this time, so I have collected 5 tips for you who are considering visiting this budget-friendly city.
Downtown Belgrade: An obvious place to stay in Serbia
It is certainly not a coincidence that Belgrade is located where it does. It is strategically located on the hills above the Danube River, which meanders around the city, creating a natural blue vein right through the old part of Belgrade, and the new – Novi Beograd, on the other side of the bridge.
It is obvious to live in the old part of Belgrade, for example at "Republic Square", which is the main square in Belgrade. From here, the pleasant pedestrian streets continue up towards the fort, and there are a multitude of sidewalk restaurants and small shops within a short distance. There are even quite a few micro-shops, if you look for them, hidden in corners and inside side buildings – I was in several watch shops of a maximum of 5-10 m2!
Here in the center of Belgrade, theaters, parks and museums are also within walking distance, and since there are many wide sidewalks and decidedly pedestrian streets, it is an easy city to experience on foot.
If you want to try something completely different, there are floating hotels and hostels on the Danube, and 6 km from the center is the district of Zemun, the more fashionable part of Belgrade.
My recommendation is that you find something in the center, because then you can just walk around to most things. I had found a hostel that had several independent apartments and it was 20 meters from the square so it was perfect.
The Temple of Saint Sava in Belgrade
The best thing to do when you arrive is to go to the big square, Republic Square, and look for a yellow or orange umbrella. It is a sign that there is a walking tour on the way, and some of them are free - in exchange for tipping the guide, and these tours can definitely be recommended. You can also see on the Internet when these "free walking tours" start, and there are even several agencies that do them.
I often use these kinds of tours when I travel, but it is rare that the offer is as good as in Belgrade.
I was on 2 different ones, the "Communist Tour" and the "20th Century Tour", and heard very well about the others.
Here you often meet other travelers, and I was quite impressed by the level of the guides, who were both really skilled, pleasant and willing to answer questions. Also the difficult questions, because they come up naturally when you are in a country with such a violent history as Serbia, where there are still many emotions and attitudes in a pinch.
On the "20th Century Tour" we got around the city really well, and it was perfect for a deeper introduction to the city. We ended up at "The Temple of Saint Sava", which is nothing less than the largest Orthodox Christian church in this part of Europe. It is inspired by the Hagia Sophia itself Istanbul, and is an impressive piece of architecture.
Although it was started in 1935, it was not completed until 2020, because a number of wars and system changes got in the way. The church's halls were, among other things, used as a parking lot by Nazis, and warehouse by Communists before it could open its doors.
The second trip was very focused on the "Museum of Yugoslavian history", which, among other things, contains a mausoleum for the long-time communist leader, Tito, and if you're just a little geeky about Eastern European history, it's obvious. The museum itself is far better with a guide, as it so often is, but here it was almost necessary to get the knowledge home.
Tesla: No, not him with the car…
Our walking guide cheerfully noted that it is very well done to have an airport, several roads, etc. named after you, when you have only been in Belgrade for one day in your life. Because Nikola Tesla, who competed with Thomas Edison for who was allowed to define how we should get electricity into the cities at the end of the 1800th century, has it.
Tesla lost and Edison won, but his inventions and reputation are still such an important part of local history that he is honored in many places.
Incidentally, Tesla was born to Serbian parents in the part of Croatia that was then called Austria-Hungary, and therefore also nicely illustrates the many overlaps and shifts that are part of the Balkans' motley history.
Tesla died depressed and poor in the United States in 1943, and the modest museum in a small villa in the center fits well with his greatness and fall.
Belgrade Fort and the breathing holes in Serbia
At the end of the main pedestrian street is the Belgrade Fortification. It is a huge fort that has been expanded from a medieval fort to a larger area, and it is an obvious target for all visitors – and is very popular with the locals.
From the fort you can see beyond the Danube and the nearby green island, and in the park there are often plenty of activities for children. Go here for a weekend and experience city life in the shade under the big trees.
On the day we were there, there was, for example, medieval commotion in several of the farms, with a cheeky mix of knights, princesses and dinosaurs!
Belgrade in Serbia actually has quite a few small breathing holes, and together with the river, it gives the impression of a big city with reasonably clean air and space for people. It is not as densely packed as you can sometimes see in old cultural cities.
The city was under communist rule for quite a few years, and the famous-notorious architecture "brutalism" with lots of concrete in cheeky shades of gray has also found its way here and there, but there is not as much at all as one might have feared.
There is an interesting mix of styles and if you go to the Hotel Moskva (which has an old history) you can see all the styles of the city gathered somewhere around the square.
Traveling is eating – and listening to music in Belgrade!
A violinist. An accordion player. A guy with an electric guitar. An entire Balkan orchestra. There is a great sound on the streets of Belgrade, and it's great when you have to go out into the city and find your next meal.
Belgrade is overflowing with local and international cafes and restaurants, including the famous ones to your head, there is a local bistro offering cold beer and music and a local bite to eat. So if you are one foodie, Belgrade is also interesting.
There are several different areas you should try when you are in the city.
Skadarlija street in the center is a festive fireworks display tavern, where there is local food and cheerful music ad libitum. There were mainly local guests, so what could have been a tourist trap is actually a pleasant street, with a lot of possibilities. The restaurant "Dva Jelena" is a classic.
In the area behind Republic Square you will find the sidewalk restaurants, and here too there are several really good deals. There was obviously the obligatory 80's music playing at the Jazz Cafe, but the food was so good that I ended up coming back here 3 times for lunch and brunch.
Directly opposite is "Red Bread", which is a healthy alternative with all kinds of freshly squeezed juice and delicious breakfast, and it can definitely be recommended.
There are plenty of restaurants along the pedestrian streets, but by far the best meal I had was on a side street, at “Bistro Grad Hometown Food", down towards the park with the pleasant name "Studentski Park". They run an advanced world cuisine at low prices, and home-made tagliatelle pasta with tube mushrooms was a king's dish for DKK 60 in their fine outdoor service on the street. If I lived in Belgrade this would be my hometown.
There are two other great areas to check out.
The first is the neighborhood that is opposite the pedestrian streets when you stand on Republic Square, down Dositejeva street. It is a completely normal residential area with local neighborhood places, and at the same time some of the city's best-reviewed restaurants, e.g. Little Bay, but also others on the next few streets, there are good options. Check Tripadvisor.
Some of the city's best international restaurants are located together on the Belgrade Promenade, right down to the Danube, in the very unattractive "Betonhala"!
It is now a rather pleasant harbor front, just below the fort, which you can also enter directly via a bridge above the halls, and if you are in the mood for Italian food, for example, you have come to the right place. It is also down here where you can go on a "sunset cruise" on the Danube.
If you are into music, there are a number of clubs in Belgrade, and there is also one for you who are into jazz or heavy metal, for example. You can download several different apps that tell about what is happening in the city in different languages. Search Belgrade and Belgrade where you pick up yours travel apps.
Day trips from Belgrade in Serbia
There are at least three obvious day trips from Belgrade in the Balkans.
The easy one is to take the new fast train half an hour to Serbia's 2nd largest city, Novi Sad, and see the city and its fort.
You can also go on organized tours for quite reasonable prices, and I went on one exciting and long day trip in eastern Serbia for e.g. "Djerdap Gorge", supposed to be the deepest gorge in Europe, is filled with the green waters of the Danube.
A good third option is to go on an organized tour that includes Novi Sad, as you often pass a good winery and local restaurants out in the countryside on the way there.
There can be a difference between whether you are picked up at the hotel or have to troop up somewhere yourself, but a little extra plus about the trip I was on was that there were clearly most locals on a weekend trip in their own country, so that was cozy, even though we were a reasonably large group.
You can of course also rent a car in Serbia, and for example visit the local markets in the villages outside Novi Sad and elsewhere.
The Balkans is something in itself
The Balkans are the real thing.
Here is not as polished as so many other places in Southern Europe. It therefore often becomes authentic and cosy, and there is so much to experience and learn in this part of Europe, which is only 2 hours away by plane.
Good trip to one of those overlooked big cities in Europe, have a good trip to Belgrade in Serbia in the Balkans.
This is what you must experience in Belgrade, Serbia
- Republic Square
- Walking street Knez Mihailova
- The Temple of Saint Sava
- Nikola Tesla Museum
- Belgrade Fort
- Museum of Yugoslavia
- Belgrade Promenade – Betonhala
- Restaurant street Skadarlija street
- Restaurant Bistro Grad
- Sailing on the Danube
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