Ethiopia is an ancient cultural country that lives up very badly to the images many Danes have of the country as perpetually starving. Therefore, it often comes as a big surprise that one can experience ancient coffee rituals and food traditions alive in Ethiopia. Join Ane Hess-Nielsen on a bloody food trip to one of the first Christian countries in the world.
In the bustling capital of Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, I visit one of the city's many butcher shops. “We love raw meat. We are Ethiopians, ”says one of the young butchers in Sami Kitfo - a slaughterhouse located on Bole Road, which is one of the city's busiest main streets. "I myself eat raw meat every day," the butcher continues, deftly cutting the fresh meat into pieces for the waiting customers.
For the raw meat dishes, injera is usually served, an Ethiopian pancake made from teffmel, which is a grass species that forms an important part of the meal in the country. You eat with your hands, dip the meat in strong spices and wrap it in injera. Some eat the flatbread kocho, which originates from the ethnic traditions of the ethnic group Gurage. Ethiopians will usually dip each chunk of meat in awaze - a kind of chili paste or in mitmita spice - a powdered strong chili mixed with spices. You drink beer or soda. Often Fanta or cola mixed with mineral water. Some rinse down with a glass of araki, which is a a strong local spirit. It probably kills everything on the way down, and is said to be good against bad stomach.
War and myths
Legend has it that Ethiopians' predilection for raw meat dates back to the 16th century. The meat was originally a wartime invention associated with Gurage's wars. Gurage is an ethnic group that today makes up 5,5% of Ethiopia's total population and who primarily live in the middle of the country, just over 100 km from the capital. They are known for being a hard working people, and for their food traditions and dance.
It is an Ethiopian myth that when the Gurage troops cooked and cooked their meat, the smoke from their fires rose and the enemy could see and smell the food. That way, they were exposed and assaulted. The Gurage troops therefore needed to develop methods so that they could prepare food without attracting attention from smoking bonfires.
Today, most of Ethiopia's over 80 different ethnic groups eat raw meat. One of the most popular meat dishes is kitfo, minced raw meat mixed with Ethiopian spices served with fresh crumbled cheese or gomen - a bitter vegetable. Another version than kitfo is tere siga, which simply means "raw meat" or "gored gored" as it is often also called. The meat requires almost no preparation, but consists of long strips of meat, with the butcher using a knife to cut the meat piece by piece. The action is called q'wirt, and the word comes from the Amharic word q'warata, which means "to cut". Ethiopians prefer to eat raw meat for lunch in the middle of the day, or on weekends and on major holidays.
In Ethiopia, one can always find tere sega at weddings and other traditional ceremonies.
After fasting
For the Ethiopian middle and upper class, it is a popular social activity to go out on the weekends and enjoy tere siga at one of the city's many slaughterhouses. Raw meat is better served in slaughterhouses than in restaurants. There is a relaxed atmosphere and at several of Addis Ababa's most popular slaughterhouses it can be difficult to find a table at the weekend.
The slaughterhouses usually have outdoor areas where people sit at plastic tables and eat and drink all day long. In some families, raw meat is reserved for adults only. Children and adolescents must be a certain age before parents will let them taste. In some places, meat-eating is a more masculine activity - men meet and eat and drink strong alcohol together.
During the holidays, meat and raw meat play an important role in Ethiopia, which is believed to have one of the largest livestock populations in Africa. After public holidays, the butchers abound in meat, whereas during Lent up to the public holidays it is usually empty and closed. The busiest holidays are around the Orthodox Christmas, which is held on January 7 (according to the Coptic calendar) and the Orthodox Easter.
In Orthodox Christianity, one has over 200 days of fasting a year, and fasting means no food until the middle of the day, and no meat and dairy products at all. Therefore, Ethiopia is also rich in vegetarian dishes. But during the Christian holidays, you feel the enthusiasm for lamb, chicken, beef and not least raw meat.
Despite the health risks of consuming large amounts of raw meat, Ethiopians are loyal to their meat dishes. It really is a gastronomic love affair with historical and cultural roots in the overlooked travel country.
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