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Uzbekistan: Fat, happy men and pilgrims in Samarkand

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Samarkand - just the name oozes adventure and mystery. Take Søren to adventurous Uzbekistan.
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Uzbekistan: Fat, happy men and pilgrims in Samarkand is written by Soren Bonde.

Uzbekistan - Bukhara - Palace K - travel to Uzbekistan

A magnificent city in Uzbekistan

In the 1200th century, Marco Polo described the city of Samarkand as "a magnificent city", where the caravans got a welcome rest before they set off on their strenuous and dangerous journey. To the east towered the Pamir and Tian Shan mountains, and to the west the scorching Kyzylkum desert awaited.

The city became the region's most important trading post, and its prosperity was made visible in the lively bazaars and magnificent buildings. Even today, the attraction has not diminished.

Since the fall of the Soviet bloc and Uzbekistan's independence in 1991, tourists are arriving in increasing numbers. Samarkand is a treasure trove of architectural masterpieces from The era of the Silk Road.

Samarkand is one of the oldest cities in the world, and it is believed that the city was founded as far back as 700 BC. of an Iranian tribe. The magnificent city had its heyday in the Middle Ages, when beautiful gardens with trees lined the streets and magnificent palaces were built.

In 2001, the city was even added to the UNESCO World Heritage List, which must be said to be something special. Therefore, you should visit the city when you travel to Uzbekistan.

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Uzbekistan - Registan

Registan – the heart of the city

Registan is the heart of the city. At first glance, it takes your breath away. Three blue-tiled madrassas dominate the large square. In these schools, young men were taught Islamic disciplines but also mathematics, logic and languages. You should also visit this when you travel to Uzbekistan.

Over time, the square has become a landmark of Samarkand and Uzbekistan, and when you experience it for yourself, you easily understand why. In Uzbekistan, one can safely say that there is some of the most beautiful architecture in the Islamic world.

I sit on a bench and breathe in the majestic atmosphere of the Registan while the April sun warms my face. A German guide explains to his group that Ulug Beg taught in one of the madrassas in the 1400th century.

The famous scientist and astronomer was the grandson of Timur Lenk himself, or Amir Timur, as he is called here.

Uzbekistan - Amir Timur - Travel

Amir Timur - National Hero of Uzbekistan

Timur came to power in the mid-1300th century by marrying the daughter of the khan. He made Samarkand the capital of Uzbekistan, but later moved to Tashkent.

During numerous expeditions, he expanded the borders of the kingdom in all directions and conquered most of Persia. Timur beautified Samarkand with riches brought home from distant lands and the income that the caravans brought here.

Amir Timur was also a great lover of art, and during his reign he enriched Samarkand with both literary and architectural masterpieces.

In 1405, he died at the age of 69 during an over-ambitious expedition on his way to China and is now buried in Samarkand. He was undoubtedly a merciless warlord but is regarded today as Uzbekistan's national hero.

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The tomb of the Emir - a beautiful monument in Uzbekistan

The Guri Emir - the tomb of the emir - is one of the city's most beautiful monuments with its golden walls adorned with calligraphic Koranic verses and beautiful patterns. The architecture is distinctly Persian, for Timur invited architects, artists and craftsmen to beautify its capital in Uzbekistan.

The construction of the magnificent monument already started back in the 1400th century, which was ordered by Muhammad Sultan. The Emir's Tomb is known for its simple appearance and construction, which attracts many admirers every year - myself included.

In the middle of the room are stone coffins, as memorial stones for Timur, his sons and grandsons. Only the male part of the genus lies here. I put my neck back, hold my breath and enjoy the impressive dome high up.

Guri Emir is not the only mausoleum in this area, and if you want to discover more – albeit smaller – monuments like this, you don't have to look far.

Close by is the small mausoleum Ruhadad, which was also built in the 1400th century. What makes the place special to visit is the myth that the mausoleum was supposed to house a hair that allegedly belonged to the Prophet Muhammad. That is a bit special.

Gur-e-Amir Registan Samarkand - Travel

Shah-i-Zinda

Not far from Guri Emir in Uzbekistan, among others, the women of the Timur family are buried in the Shah-i-Zinda necropolis, which is another breathtaking building complex that should be visited. At the entrance I pass a horde of pilgrims and am met by another overwhelming sight.

This street of mausoleums was created over several hundred years, and one of the most beautiful is Shadi Mulk Aka from 1372, where one of Timur's wives is buried. Shah-i-Zinda was thoroughly restored in 2005, and today the blue-tiled facades once again shine against the sun in Uzbekistan.

The name means "The Living King" and refers to the largest shrine - the tomb of Qusam ibn-Abbas.

He was a cousin of the Prophet Muhammad and is said to have brought Islam here as early as the 7th century. Everyone wanted to be buried near the living king, and Shah-i-Zinda grew with time.

Registan Samarkand - travel

Do as the locals in Samarkand

Satisfied with impressions, I trudge back towards the hotel. A pair of fat, happy men in square felt hats come down a flight of stairs followed by a fragrant smoke and smell of food.

My stomach rumbles in agreement and I head up the stairs. Fortunately, there are plenty of opportunities to satisfy your hunger in Samarkand, either in the finer restaurants or in an - often cozier - "chaikhana".

In these tea houses, men primarily meet for a chat, but women are also welcome. In addition to tea, traditional dishes such as "plow" (a rice dish) and "manti" (small dough packets) are served here. I take off my shoes and sit down at a "tapchan", which is a bed-like platform covered by a blanket with a low table on top.

Here you sit in a tailor's position and eat with the locals, and like the locals. Not much has changed here since the time of the caravans. It is very atmospheric and relaxed. And how lovely it is. It's fun to do like the locals when traveling to Uzbekistan.

Have a good trip to Samarkand and the rest of Uzbekistan!

Here are 7 sights you must experience in Uzbekistan:

  • Registan square in Samarkand
  • Ichan Kala (The Inner City) in Khiva
  • Bukhara old town
  • The Shah-i-Zinda Mausoleum in Samarkand
  • The Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum in Samarkand
  • Itchan Kala in Khiva
  • Ark of Bukhara

About the author

Soren Bonde

Søren is an adventurer, founder of the lecture site "vagabonde.dk" and director and partner in Panorama Travel. He is also a passionate photographer and author of a book (about Peru) and several articles. Søren has a master's degree. in music ethnology with studies in theology and medieval history and has over 10 years of experience in the travel industry. He has traveled the world since he was 21 years old and has visited many places where very few tourists get to. That is why he received De Berejstes Klub's honorary award - the Folkersen Prize - in 2015.

Although it has become a comprehensive travel CV with visits to over 85 countries, Søren prefers to go in depth with the destinations. Iran and the countries along the Silk Road, with their exciting cultural history and difficult geography, have always been some of his favorite destinations. Thus, he annually visits Iran and the countries of Central Asia, but also the Horn of Africa and Central and South America are areas that Søren has great knowledge of and constantly returns to.

Søren is a country expert on Iran and the Silk Road (Central Asia and Xinjiang). He has traveled on the Silk Road since 1995 and in Iran since 2004. In total, he has spent many months at the destinations, both solo and as a tour guide and in many remote corners of the region. He has given numerous lectures across the country and also teaches cultural history about Iran and about the Silk Road at the universities (FU) in Copenhagen, Odense, Kolding and Aalborg.

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