Lebanon: A journey to the other side of the Middlehavet is written af Jacob Gowland Jørgensen
Pentecost to Lebanon
I never really thought about that Middelhavet Jo has more pages. Mediumhavet is, after all, just Southern Europe, and then there is Africa og Middle East. But basically it's nonsense. Mediumhavet with all its beauty, warmth and history, stretches all the way around, and of course you have to experience it.
The story begins with my friend and travel buddy Jesper sending an SMS that he can watch RejsRejsRejs.dk, that SAS has opened a direct route from Copenhagen to Beirut, and whether it was not obvious with a Pentecost trip to the Middle East?
Ehh, let's just say I've seen better, but what about the security situation down there? We researched and asked ourselves, and quickly concluded that there were no legs in it, if you just stayed away from the border areas.
Although Lebanon would become my country number 90, I have never really been in the Middle East, only in Turkey, Egypt and Qatar. Knowing that it was a big mistake in my travel upbringing, we decided it was time to travel to Lebanon.
We tensed the courage muscle and bought tickets. We were to fly to the city, which I have always called Goodbeirut, and land in the middle of the night in a region with a violent history and present.
Beirut – a surprising Mediterranean city
Lebanon was for some decades a French colony, and it has left some huge traces on the small country with 4 million. inhabitants, and at least 1 million. refugees.
Beirut was so much smashed during the Civil War in the 70s and 80s, but has been rebuilt with its original cornice, the classic French seafront.
The sun and beach life are cultivated as they do in the South of France, and both French and English phrases are often mixed into the conversation when the locals stroll on the small peninsula that forms the core of Beirut. To that extent, Beirut is a Mediterranean city that has a lot to offer - even if it has the past against it. But there are so many places that do.
We came out of town on a Sunday where there was a heat wave and Ramadan had just started. So we did not see many people as we walked through the city into the center, with the cathedral and the mosque. Towards the afternoon, however, some life came, and when we went to Beirut's party area in the evening, it was busy.
Drinks, high heels and short dresses are not exactly what I had expected to find in the Middle East, but the 18 different religious groups give Beirut a great diversity. In East Beirut by Mar Mikhael, it seems like there is always a party. Incidentally, it is a really cozy area, with many old colonial houses, and it is easy to wander around. And definitely by the way.
The world's oldest city is located in Lebanon
A good 30 km north of Beirut lies Byblos, as the Greeks named it. The local guide told us that it is believed that Byblos is the oldest city in the world 7000 years of history. Here, for example, cedar wood was sent to the Egyptians so they could build the pyramids.
Byblos is really shaped by Middelhavets history. All major conquerors and migrations have passed through here, so the old center is a curious mix of Roman columns, a castle built by the Crusaders and ruins from other periods.
It is not such a big area, but one easily senses that this part of the world has always played an important role in the history of mankind.
Heat wave, wind and snow
Lebanon is named after the color of the countryside in winter, and it is surprisingly often white. There is a mountain range running down through the country, which makes it lush, beautiful and bitterly cold in winter. The local joke is that you can ski in the morning and swim in Middelhavet pm.
On the other hand, there is no desert here at all, as the only Arab country. But they then get some joy from the desert in the other countries, because sometimes a local weather phenomenon occurs, where a warm wind with sand in blows from Egypt - a Chamsin. We enjoyed that wind, and it beat the temperature up to 34 degrees, and put a sand-yellow veil over the horizon.
Therefore, it was also an extra big hit to go to Baatara Gorge, which must be one of the most beautiful places in the country. It requires that you are reasonably sure of your feet to be able to walk there, but then you also get a top-class nature experience. And the water, which consists of melted ice from the mountains, cooled nicely.
All that hiking makes one hungry, so we were pretty ready for lunch, but probably did not quite expect the cornucopia that came into the world, served with a smile, and a cheeky mix of French and Arabic words.
We were out in a mountain village, and it was Mutter herself who had been responsible for all 20 dishes. When she had served it all, she also took a plate, and we ate together among the lemon trees and with a view of the mountains. It was absolutely perfect.
Because we had eaten so much garlic, it felt as if you had chewed your way through a shopping cart the next day, but it was a small price for this feast with i.a. artichokes, humus and a local form of gnocchi.
What a hospitality you can find in Lebanon.
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Qadisha Valley: Lebanon's nature in free play
We hiked more around the mountains of Lebanon, where there was often a cross on top. Or another symbol of the new religion in the world – a cell tower! We also went to the Qadisha Valley, which is a dramatic piece of land flowing with ancient monasteries, giant cedar trees and incredibly pleasant mountain air.
At the highest peaks there were still snow remnants left after the winter, even though we were in late May. While we were driving there, our skilled guide told us that there had just been an election and that a prime minister was now being elected to be a Muslim.
According to the law, the president was to be a Christian, and this was how a religious balance had been built into an otherwise relatively democratic system. Where there was also room for the old unodes with a little corruption, inefficiency and symbolic politics in the corners, but still some kind of democratic base that made room for the many religious groups in the country.
Water, water, water
I might as well admit it: I'm a beach animal. When you are born on an island, there is something amazing about seeing again havet, and take a dip while enjoying the heat.
We therefore went to Batroun, just north of Byblos, which is a Christian town where you enjoy the sun and all that it brings with it, among other things. sun-ripened lemons and oranges. For now it was on bathing day!
We had booked a couple of beach chairs at the luxurious one Beach club Orchid, and the day went by going to pool 1, pool 2 and Middelhavet. Eat delicious food, drink fruit cocktails and feel the sun warm your body through. Ahhh…
It is built on a slope down towards havet, with white planks and a chilled atmosphere that just screamed summer joy. After several hours in the hedonistic paradise, we took a taxi back to the hotel, where there was a large pool with salt water.
But it was still not quite the same as at Orchid, so we quickly found a giant cafe-restaurant-music venue with flat-out chairs, microbreweries and a lot of festive rooms that were out with their friends, and in the open air we saw the stars come forward while a thoroughly fantastic beach day ran out into the sand…
We had booked into L'auberge de La Mer – one of the best hotels in Lebanon – for the last part of our journey. It is a boutique hotel right by the harbor and the old town of bette Batroun.
Here, life went on peacefully, drinking copious amounts of lemonade, looking at the small shops, and being warmly welcomed with a handshake when entering a restaurant. We ate a lot of breakfast at the hotel, so that day wasn't a diet day either.
We were going back to Beirut, pack and home again after some intensive days in an incredibly comfortable and easy travel country that had so surprisingly many similarities with Turkey, Greece og Cyprus. And yet is completely itself, with a completely unique history and population. It probably won't be the last time I go on a trip to Lebanon.
Have a nice trip to Lebanon.
You must see this on your trip to Lebanon
- Visit Byblos – the world's oldest city
- Experience Baatara Gorge
- Go to Qadisha Valley
- Enjoy the sun and remedyhavet at Batroun
- The ruined city of Tyre
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