Experiences in South Dakota: The Museum of the Nuclear War is written by Michael Bo Christensen
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A secret area from the Cold War
At the end of Badlands National Park in South Dakota is something as special as the Museum of Nuclear War: the Minuteman Missile National Historic Site. The museum was set up in an attempt at openness in the wake of the Cold War. In addition to the museum, one can see dummies of the nuclear missiles that lay ready in buried silos 'Delta-09' in South Dakota. You can even get down into the otherwise secret bunkers, where the minute men sat ready.
For years, the soldiers have been sitting ready - with their finger on the button - waiting for the order from the president. Day and night on 24 hour shift, 2 men at a time. The men were protected by a meter-thick door, which is called 'the blast door', which was to protect them. The door can only be opened and closed from the inside.
The two men on duty each had their key, and both had to be turned at the same time to activate the nuclear missiles. Therefore, they were placed at four-meter intervals, to prevent “unintended events,” as it was worded.
Even though there were only two of them on duty, one was always in command. Down in the bunker called LCC (Launch Control Center) they had their own 'apartment'. The time down there seemed immeasurably long and the time was spent on TV and reading. Most had only two round-the-clock shifts a week, so it was quite common to take an education at the same time as the soldier's job.
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Only come if you dare
In practice, there were many kilometers to the 10 rockets that the soldiers checked on Delta-09. They were spread over a large geographical area and thus did not lie in the same place as the bunker.
Most of the United States' nuclear missiles are located in northern South Dakota. From here, in less than 30 minutes, rockets could be sent the shortest way across the North Pole to the east and hit large parts of the Soviet Union, which at the time was the main enemy.
In October 1962, the world stood on the brink of nuclear war for 13 days as Cuba deployed Russian missiles on the island. Rockets that could hit most of the United States. The world held its breath in anxiety and excitement. Personally, I even remember the days when, as a 6-year-old, I could feel the silence and tension around the dining table.
My older siblings were not as they used to be either. I did not understand any of it, but I remember being scared. It was probably nothing compared to the soldiers who were on duty down in the piles. They were under great pressure in the days when all the exercises could become a reality. One of those who sat ready if the order came was Joe.
He is still there, but is now spending his time showing the public what he did 10 meters underground day after day, including with Jim, who is now employed by the National Park Service (NPS), which runs the museum. Following the disarmament agreements with the former Soviet Union, Delta-09 was disbanded, and later became a monument to a cold time. The only one found in the United States.
The museum describes the Cold War and life in the bunker in particular. One of the employees, Jill, tells of a childhood in fear. She lived in the area as a child and spent much of her time looking up at the sky. She knew this was where the rockets would come from if the United States was attacked.
Although Jill has probably told of a childhood in fear many times, one can clearly sense that it touches her to recount. "It's a bit of a paradox that I work here," she tells me as she shows me around. The museum is filled with propaganda material against the evil red Russians, and the place exudes the invincibility of the American army and the come-only-if-you-dare attitude.
Experiences in Badland National Park in South Dakota:
The nuclear bunker is open to the public. To get there you need to be ready at the museum, exit 131 (here is also the driveway to Badlands National Park) when they open at 8.00am to get tickets. There is a limited number of places and there is free admission. You must be able to climb 5 meters on a ladder if the elevator is broken.
Children under 1 meter can not enter. Do not bring bags. From kl. At 9.00 a.m. there is a tour of the Delta-09 bunker itself, which is a 10-minute drive away at exit 127 on Interstate 90. No one enters without a ticket. Here you should also explore the missile silo where the nuclear missile - now just a dummy - is dug into the ground. It can only be seen from above.
For many years, the museum has witnessed a distant time when a nuclear war was unthinkable. As these lines are being written, two heads of state from the United States and North Korea are threatening to bomb each other. The completely unthinkable has once again become an option. There are still many nuclear silos that are operated by day and night minutes and now also -women.
If you do not want to be confronted with this regrettable part of the story, then go for a walk in the good country, Badlands National Park. It only takes 5 minutes to drive there - or as long as the soldiers have to press the button if the order comes…
Lots of great experiences await in South Dakota on your next trip to the US - have a good trip!
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