Enjoying life in Langhe – wine, truffles and the sweet life in Piedmont is written by Jens Skovgaard Andersen. RejsRejsRejs was invited to Langhe by Albeisa Consortium. All opinions are, as always, the author's own.
The sweet life at the foot of the Alps
Welcome to the Langhe wine region in the Italian region of Piedmont. Piedmont means 'at the foot of the mountains', and it's a fitting name for the region where some of the world's most beloved delicacies come from. In Piedmont, life is lived with Alps like a beautiful backdrop.
Italy is rightly world-famous for its cuisine and culinary specialties, and you will find a veritable paradise of gastronomy in Piedmont's rolling hills, winding country roads and cozy medieval villages.
This is where you will find the wines Barolo, Barbera and Barbaresco, which are loved the world over.
It is also here that you will find the 'gold nugget of gastronomy', the truffle, which grows underground and is sniffed out by either pigs or specially trained dogs. The white truffle in particular is almost worth its weight in gold, and the truffle season attracts gourmands from near and far every year.
And as if that wasn’t enough, the Langhe and its capital Alba are also home to the original Nutella producer Ferrero, named after the inventor of the same name. The region has some of the best hazelnuts, which thrive perfectly in the Piedmont climate, so it’s no surprise that this is where Nutella comes from.
There is literally something for everyone in Langhe, making it an ideal destination for anyone who likes to indulge in the best that Italy has to offer.
Take the family on holiday, take your partner on a romantic getaway or go on your own and let yourself be seduced by the delights. In general, just go to Langhe and Piedmont.
World class wine
Langhe is known primarily as a wine region. The vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see in the rolling landscapes. The landscapes play a large and decisive role in the creation of wine, and in Langhe no two fields are the same.
There is a clear difference between whether a vineyard faces north or south, whether the field is flat or on a slope, whether the soil is moist and soft or dry and rocky, and of course what grapes are grown. If the vineyard is on one side of the river, it is significantly different from a field on the other side of the river.
Viticulture and wine production is a real science, and in Langhe they are experts in this very science. Nothing is by chance, and everything is done with centuries of deep knowledge and a true love for wine.
Every producer has their secret tricks, every wine has its own characteristics, and a Barolo is not just a Barolo. You will quickly learn this when you dive into the vast world of Langhe wine.
No matter what type of wine you prefer, Langhe is the place for you.
One of the best ways to experience the region's wines is to visit one of the local wine consortia, which gather the best wines from the best producers in one place, and they will be happy to tell you everything you need to know - and more.
The Wine Consortium Albéisa is known for its unique bottles, and you can visit them right in the city of Alba, so it's an easy way to start.
Once you have an overview of what is available in the fields, you can go to the individual wineries afterwards and explore your favorite wines even more.
The wonderful world of wine
There is wine everywhere in the Langhe and many of the winemakers would love to have you visit. They are proud of what they do and you can join them all the way through the winemaking process if you want. Visit a winery and gain a greater understanding of how wine goes from vine to bottle.
If you can't get enough of wine production, you can extend your visit with a historical wine museum in the village of La Morra – or how about the corkscrew museum in the town of Barolo? The possibilities are many.
Even without a big connection to wine, it is really nice to visit the small towns that are scattered across the Langhe countryside. The Middle Ages still live on in the winding streets and small cozy squares, where the locals enjoy life all day long and only move when the sun's shadow moves, if you have to move along.
The towns are the kind of villages you see on TV when there are cycling races; a medieval castle surrounded by churches, monasteries and narrow houses on top of a cliff. With local restaurants and cafes where time almost stands still. It doesn't get much more Italian and romantic.
If you choose to base yourself in one of the small towns when visiting the Langhe, here's a little tip: Remember to buy some provisions such as soda and snacks from the supermarket or a shop in the slightly larger towns along the way. In the small wine towns, everything is about wine and nothing else.
Truffles – Langhe's culinary gems
Wine is not the only thing that attracts gastronomic connoisseurs from all over the world to Piedmont and especially the Langhe. Autumn in the Langhe is the season for white truffles, and then the entire region is on the other end.
Alba hosts the traditional white truffle festival in October, and it's a huge hit when the underground specialty is in season. But truffles can be found almost year-round. Black truffles grow between the roots of certain types of trees in the Langhe area, and are in season several times a year.
The truffle hunt is carried out with specially trained dogs that have learned to find the truffles – and just as importantly, learned not to eat them themselves. The dog owners carry treats in their pockets, which they exchange for a newly found truffle, so that both dogs and truffle hunters return home happy from the hunt.
You can go truffle hunting in the village of Neive, and it's an exciting activity for both children and adults. Here you'll learn about both the vagaries of nature and the interaction between man and man's best friend.
The importance of truffles to the Langhe is particularly evident in the main town of Alba.
On the pedestrian street in the middle of the city you will find countless specialties with truffles as an ingredient, and in the street itself you will come across special tiles with those who have been voted 'Truffle of the Year' over the years. Previous recipients of this great honor include John F. Kennedy and Sofia Loren.
Sweet things for the sweet life
En travel in Italy is not complete without one gelato or many. Fortunately, Langhe is also a great place to indulge your sweet tooth.
Summer is very hot, and overall there are plenty of warm sunny days where a cold ice cream works wonders.
The many small ice cream parlors have local specialties on the menu, and I can only recommend trying something that might sound a little different. Especially if it is made with local ingredients. For example, have you tried a milk ice cream with olive oil and sea salt?
For the young ones in the family – and for those of us who have never really given up on sweets – Alba is almost a pilgrimage destination. This is where Nutella comes from. Here you don't have to feel guilty about spreading it thickly.
The many hazelnuts that grow on the slopes of Langhe and Piedmont are used in many of the local dishes, and nut cakes of all kinds beckon in the baker's window.
Try it out – there are plenty of delicious things to get started with.
Sleep, eat and be happy
Where should you base yourself if you want to experience Langhe? And where should you go to eat? It can be hard to choose when everything looks delicious.
It's easiest to get around if you have your own car or rent a car locally. It can be confusing with the many small towns in between, and it's easy to miss an exit. So just take it easy and keep an eye on the signs – or take a detour in the beautiful surroundings.
If you live in one of the small wine towns, you can walk to most places, and there are buses between the larger towns with stops in the smaller towns along the way. As long as you don't have a tight schedule – and there's absolutely no reason to be – then getting around by bus is fine.
Many locals rent out rooms, and the hotels in the small towns have very few rooms. Therefore, it doesn't feel crowded in the Langhe at all, unless you're in the middle of the truffle festival.
Just like with accommodation, it's easy to find good local food. The restaurants are small and intimate, and the food is grown right on the doorstep. It's the real, rural Italian cuisine you encounter, and often the menu is limited to what's good at the moment.
A good and popular example of a local restaurant is Ostu di Djun in the town of Castagnito. Here you don't get a menu card and no price list. The menu is what they have that day, and it costs what it costs. They figure that out at the end.
They offer a cornucopia of local dishes, the wine is passed around in magnum bottles between all guests, and everyone gets the same thing.
The restaurant is popular with locals and is therefore often full, so book a table if you can. The price is extremely reasonable and the experience is something very special.
A more traditional – but absolutely equally memorable – dining experience is the Marc Lanteri restaurant in Castagnito d'Alba.
The restaurant shares its name with the owner, Marc Lanteri, who has received awards from The Michelin Guide, and has now opened his own restaurant in simply stunning surroundings in Piedmont.
The restaurant is located in the middle of the vineyards and offers an incredibly beautiful view of an amphitheater of vines and rolling hills. Although you can stand and enjoy the view for hours, it is the food that plays the main role. There is a lot of attention to detail, and you can taste that you are in the hands of really good chefs here.
Bring your wife or husband and enjoy a dinner that will stay in your memory long after your visit.
Overall, Langhe is a treat for all the senses, and there's no doubt that local producers know what they're doing. They're proud of their craft, their homes, and their products, and with good reason.
Whether it's wine, truffles, Nutella or just the sweet life of Italy's medieval villages that appeals to you the most, just come along. You're sure to enjoy Langhe and Piedmont.
It's not the big tourist attractions that characterize the Langhe; it's the small intimate experiences, and the many experiences for the palate. And as we all probably already know, it's often the small experiences that end up being the biggest.
You should enjoy and experience this in Piedmont and Langhe
- Barolo, Barbera, Barbaresca, Asti and many more – try all the excellent wines Piedmont is world-renowned for
- Truffle hunting – hunt for the Langhe's underground gold with the local experts
- The Alba Truffle Festival – held every year in October
- Albe Consortiumisa – try the best wines from the best producers at the local wine consortium in Alba
- Ostu di Djun – popular local restaurant with daily menu and unforgettable atmosphere
- Marc Lanteri – restaurant named after the Michelin chef, who is in the kitchen himself and gives his guests an absolutely top-class experience
- Nutella – Alba's nutty pride
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